Global Glamour: A Roundup of a24, Fashion Month's Finest Shows in New York, Paris, Milan, and London
Out with the old, in with the new. This past February, we got a look at the latest’s AW24 womenswear fashion circuit. From classic brands expanding on their signature looks, to new designers reimagining the future of classic houses, to everything in-between. From impressive shows, brands, & designs from New York, London, Milan, & Paris that stood out against the crowd through their use of storytelling, design techniques, & evoking thought in the viewer.
As a treat to us here in America, we get the pleasure of having New York Fashion Week always kickoff the fashion circuit. Many great shows this season, but Khaite & Helmut Lang representation of the NYC state of mind was prominent. Khaite’s show was a highly anticipated following creative director & founder, Cate Holstein’s, win of the 2023 American Women’s Designer of the Year CFDA award. Her AW24 show consisted of a true celebration of materials & the female figure. In memory of her mother, Holstein demonstrates sculpting the body using different textures & techniques. Sticking to a black, white, army green & oxblood color scheme casted against a blacked-out showroom as to keep the memory illuminated in the mind of the viewer. Khaite is preparing her audience for how fall looks in her world.
However, for Peter Do at Helmut Lang, he has a different idea of fall. In his second collection for Helmut Lang, Do poses the questions: “What is it that you are looking for & What is it that you need?” Protection vs. Projection. Besides the clothes being fluid in the brands previous identity, but still fluent in Do’s creative touch, this collection pushes us to think of how we view our clothes as armor to the outside world. Even with clean cut, well-tailored clothes, we cannot hide from our imperfections. A piece of hair sticking out, smudged makeup. That we cannot be protected from our own insecurities no matter how fire the fit is, which leads to the projection of that same fault. So, ask yourself again; What are you looking for? & What is it that you need?
Across the pond, celebrations we’re in order as London Fashion week celebrated their 40-year anniversary. So much has changed since the first fashion week in 1984. London Fashion week giving so many of the greats their debuts. Noteworthy debuts from designers like Alexander McQueen, John Galliano, Stella McCartney, & Jonathan Anderson. Another Englishman creative director debut comes from Daniel Lee showcasing his 3rd collection at Burberry. With heritage at the forefront, the authentic British & Irish heritage was imminent throughout this collection. Taking a traditional approach of celebrating the outdoors through creativity, Lee was inspired by “the feel of warm & protective”. With the cozy comfort of Amy Winehouse playing throughout the show, Lee focuses on coats & trenches that give a sense of Earth & grounding with the color scheme. Lee has done a great job of adopting the brand as his own & creating a new era at the notorious house. Lee creates the perfect British & Irish garments that will stand out in anytime period.
A more recently debut that showed out for the AW24 season was Ahluwalia. Nigerian Indian designer Priya Ahluwalia debuted her first collection during London Fashion Week back in 2018 & hasn’t looked back since. Finding inspiration from African & Indian folklore tales of 'The Prince Who Wanted the Moon' and 'How the Leopard Got His Spots’, research on deities & characters from Igbo stories, as well as mythical realm of Indian gods & the symbolical illustrations can be found throughout the collection. Ahluwalia’s determination to keep the elements of her childhood & London roots alive through her references in her work is inspiring. The immigrant dream is alive & well. Teaming up with Levi’s to produce denim sculpted looks, & her native symbols across the runway in metamorphic ways is the beauty behind partnerships as such.
On the same theme of protection, During Milan Fashion Week, we see Maximillian Davis’ interpretation of that through his work at Ferragamo. “In the twenties, as a response to the world that surrounded them, people created their own spaces through speakeasies, explains Davis. "They were hiding what they were wearing until they were safe”. For women, the 1920s was a time of celebration & freedom. Motivated by the hyper-feminists & those who dressed in more masculine silhouettes, Davis creates a protected space where both women are defined & liberated. We can see that in the sweetheart shape satin heels, to unlined leather that falls on the body more relaxed, to dropped waists & eased cuts. Another great example of new heights a classic brand can reach.
With new heights often comes new challenges. The anticipated debut of creative director Adrian Appiolaza at Moschino surely came with its on sets of challenges. However, Appiolaza had no trouble exploring the new beginning after Jeremy Scotts’ departure. “History is a foundation, to build a new language from an existing vocabulary.” Appiolaza says as he had the opportunity to dig deep into the works of Moschino history, specifically founder, Franco Moschino, work. Reflecting his message of universal love & peace to a current world that needs it most. We look forward to seeing all that Appiolaza accomplishes at his time at Moschino.
Lastly, we have Paris Fashion week that comes with its own anticipated debuts. One was Chemena Kamali’s creative director debut at Chloé. This is a full circle moment for Kamali as she worked at Chloé as part of Phoebe Philo’s team & later again as a Design Director under Clare Waight Keller. Kamali returning to a house that she has so much history is advantageous & that is reflected in the clothes. Kamali is focused on creating the “Chloé Woman Spirit”. Kamali explains “I want to feel her presence again; her beat, her natural beauty, her sense of freedom and undone -ness. The glow, the radiance, and the energy of that girl. She is real. She is herself.” In creating this Chloe Women, showcases influences from the late 1970s, sheer flowing tops that move to the silhouettes of the models. Alluring to the era where a woman could be free in who she was. Truly a powerful debut collection with a resonating story.
In the same flip of resonating stories, we end Paris Fashion Week looking at the works of Rick Owen’s AW24 show that took place at his house. Owens recalls that as a kid instead of a TV filling their home in Portervelle with noise & cartoons, it was replaced with opera & childhood reads of Edgar Rice Burroghs. Stories set in space with Frank Frazetta illustrations on the cover. Describing it as “The world I longed to leave Portervelle for.” These extraterrestrial looks continue to add to the world Owens has spent many years cultivating. However, Rick Owens, as the man & brand, have spent much time reflecting on their environmental impact, even if the clothes seem out of this world. Recycled discarded bicycle tires by Matisse do Maggie, member of the Parisian BDSM community who specializes in rubber. All denims are also treated in an Italian wash house that produce small treatment baths to reduce water waste & utilize water purifying that enables them to recycle a portion of the water used. All denim is ZDHC certified. These are only a few ways that Owens takes precaution in developing new clothes season after season. Owens is dedicated to sustainability in a creative manner that makes his clothes, that much more delightful. We appreciate the designers that take time to reflect on making positive changes in their design process.
Through the art of fashion, we can experience so much of the world around us. Tapping into the minds of our current creatives, as well as the influences that push them to be great. Until the next fashion circuit in September 2024.
- Kalkidane Negewo
Photo Credit to Vogue Runway